Volterra is a very famous medieval village, perfectly preserved and truly magnificent, right in the heart of a renowned wine-producing area. It boasts many museums worth exploring: among them, the Etruscan Archaeological Museum and the Alabaster Museum – this region has been famous for alabaster extraction and craftsmanship since Etruscan times, as they were the first to discover and work this unique stone. Another highlight is Palazzo Viti-Incontri, an elegant noble residence from the late 16th century with 12 rooms open to visitors, where everything remains as it was collected over the centuries by wealthy inhabitants. Here you’ll find ancient alabaster pieces, precious books, 18th- and 19th-century Chinese and Oriental objects, Italian furniture from various eras, and a collection of paintings. This palace was also the filming location for the acclaimed Italian director Luchino Visconti’s movie Vaghe stelle dell’Orsa, which won the Golden Lion at Venice in 1965.
Volterra also features a Roman theater, a Medicean fortress (of course), and an Etruscan archaeological area. One particularly popular museum is the Museo della Tortura (Torture Museum), a genuine journey into the darker side of human history, ideal for lovers of historical themes. It houses both original and reconstructed instruments of torture and execution, showcasing the brutal technologies of past centuries with detailed descriptions, old engravings, prints, and paintings.
But, of course, the true charm of Volterra lies in wandering its squares and little squares, strolling through its streets and alleys, magically frozen in time. Today, these historical lanes are dotted – thankfully – with cozy restaurants and charming bars offering excellent food and wine, as well as simple yet delicious cheese platters accompanied by imaginative jams. Start, naturally, at the splendid Piazza dei Priori, which is simply one of Italy’s most beautiful medieval squares. There’s nothing more to add – it’s remained unchanged since 1208, when construction of the Palazzo dei Priori began. Facing it are the equally beautiful cathedral and baptistery. Stay until evening, because Volterra illuminated at night is absolutely unforgettable.
In July and August, guided tours and organized visits are plentiful. During the central week of August, the medieval spirit truly comes alive with the enchanting event Volterra AD 1398: the whole town immerses itself in that ancient era, and for the duration of the festival, modern currency is not accepted – the only official money is the “Grosso Volterrano,” which you can acquire at “L’Offizio Cambio.”
Another unique event to highlight is La Notte Rossa (The Red Night), usually held on the second Saturday of September. It’s a much-loved and more intimate celebration among locals, quite different from the more touristy festivals. The entire medieval city is bathed in red light through evocative lighting displays, and throughout the historic center – as well as in private homes and gardens – musical performances, readings, and short theatrical acts take place every half hour, creating a magical cultural itinerary.
